VOLUME 9 GAZOO DRIVES
Words by Leila Khoshoie
Film photography by Kate Hulett
5 MIN READ
Ready to explore the rugged wilderness of WA with me was photographer Kate Hulett, who did a piece on The Pinnacles for Volume 3. Having already covered some of the northwest coast of Perth, for this article we decided to head inland and see what hidden gems we could uncover. And what better way to do it than behind the wheel of a GR Corolla GTS?
Being a WA local meant that Kate had a good idea of spots to take us, so I was happy to leave the route in her safe hands. I was excited about this trip for many reasons, but the main one had to be taking the GR Corolla for a spin. Having learned how to drive in the UK, I know how to navigate my way around a manual car. But the GR Corolla’s capability is a far cry from my VW Golf, which can barely manage hills at the best of times.
When I went to pick up the car, I was told that it had been nicknamed Husky, inspired by the three letters on its plates. I thought that was cute, and the car’s metallic grey sheen could be likened to the coat of a Siberian Husky. I was ready to find out whether the GR Corolla was as energetic as its canine counterpart. But first I had to resist the urge to hoon when the lights turned green – the engine was so responsive that a purr could transform into a growl with the lightest touch.
Our first stop was Stackwood, a lovely cafe on the outskirts of central Fremantle, or ‘Freo’ as the locals call it. The space itself is an ex-diesel mechanic warehouse turned shared workspace and community hub, complete with artist studios, workshop space and the HQ of the owners' architecture firm, The Fulcrum Agency. Stackwood is also home to a concept store, plant shop and cafe, so you can work on kitting out your home whilst waiting for your morning coffee. They’re passionate about bringing communities together and host regular events in their beautiful space. We grabbed some bits to fuel us for the day before we hit the road.
Eclectic detailing at Stackwood.
The next part of our drive involved the Zig Zag Scenic Drive in Gooseberry Hill down the escarpment, taking in breathtaking views west towards Perth City. A short half-hour drive from the city, it’s a steep one-way road down the western side of the Darling Ranges in Gooseberry Hill and forms part of Beelu National Park. We accidentally took a longer route to get there but switching map apps halfway through was a good opportunity to stop the car for a gorgeous, clear view of the city.
First: Perth skyline from Gooseberry Hill lookout.
Second: Zig-zagging my way along the Scenic Drive.
The start of the Scenic Drive looks like it’s only accessible to pedestrians and cyclists, but don’t panic; cars are allowed down the track. The narrow path is shared so make sure to take it slow as you will inevitably run into people enjoying their daily jog, hikers and the odd fitness enthusiast out on their blades. A slower pace also lets you enjoy the views as you descend the meandering track, almost 3km in length. Husky’s responsive steering expertly handled the sharp, winding corners. Having this much fun driving downhill should be illegal.
After the Scenic Drive, we headed straight for Mundaring. The name ‘Mundaring’ is thought to be an anglicised version of the Aboriginal word ‘Mindah-lung’, which means “a high place on a high place”. Tucked away in the Perth Hills, Mundaring’s main claim to fame is the Mundaring Weir, a concrete gravity dam that forms part of the Goldfields Water Supply Scheme. In the late 1800s, water was a hot commodity, so the pipeline and dam were built to supply water to areas of WA that needed it. At that time, it was the longest freshwater pipe in the world, and to this day continues to pump water from Mundaring Weir to the Goldfields in Kalgoorlie and Coolgardie.
Taking it all in at the Lake O’Connor Lookout.
We parked the car and wandered up to take a look. Approaching the dam, you can’t help but marvel at how impressive a structure it is. You can walk to a viewing platform to enjoy views over the dam and Lake O’Connor, named after Irish engineer Charles Yelverton O’Connor (renowned for his work on the Fremantle Harbour). C. Y. O’Connor was told by many that his idea to build the dam was impossible, so to see it still being used today cements its status as a stroke of engineering genius.
Up next was Northam, WA’s largest inland town and home to over 185 heritage-listed buildings. It lies at the heart of Perth's picturesque Avon Valley. Located just over an hour from Perth and situated along the Great Eastern Highway, Northam is a great destination for nature, art and architecture.
As a fan of urban art, I was looking forward to checking out the murals in and around Northam. The first one we drove past is located in the centre of Northam and is hard to miss, although it’s on a busy stretch of road so we’d recommend parking your car for a closer look. Fremantle artist Amok Island was commissioned to paint ‘The Last Swans’ – a mural stretching across the facade of Northam’s iconic Flour Mill. Seeing the beauty in that mural, I wondered why we don’t cover more of our buildings in art.
Amok Island’s ‘The Last Swans’.
We stopped for a quick bite at a cafe that’s part of the Farmers’ Home Hotel – a beautiful historic building that has been restored by award-winning Fremantle Architects, Spaceagency. We sat outside to have lunch, managing to catch the glorious afternoon sun before going to check out a few more spots on foot.
Northam is situated on the Avon River, which winds its way through the centre of town. A pedestrian suspension bridge connects the two sides of the town, and if you can believe it, is the longest bridge of its kind in Australia. Who knew humble Northam would be known for breaking records?
From the bridge, you can see vertical wooden slats that form the viewing platform of Bilya Koort Boodja. Meaning ‘river, heart, land’, the Centre for Nyoongar Culture and Environmental Knowledge holds local Aboriginal stories about community, environment and culture to welcome and educate. We visited on National Sorry Day, marked each year on May 26 to remember and acknowledge the mistreatment of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people who were forcibly removed as children from their families and communities, also known as the Stolen Generations. We had a peek inside and walked around to take in the building, designed by internationally-acclaimed practice Iredale Pedersen Hook architects.
The view of Bilya Koort Boodja from the Avon Suspension Bridge.
Our architectural tour continued as we drove to see the Northam Public Library and former Shire offices. Designed by Iwan Iwanoff in the 1960s, this one’s for the fans of Brutalist architecture. With its angular form and clean lines, it feels like it has been lifted straight out of post-war Europe. Born in Bulgaria, Iwanoff studied in Europe before seeking refuge in Perth in the 1950s. The library stands as a testament to Iwanoff’s innovative approach to design and through his work has made a significant contribution to architectural heritage in WA.
Synergy between the library and Husky’s angular and curved lines.
Northam is full of random relics of the past, like the former Olympic swimming pool on Mitchell Avenue. Sadly now closed to the public, the pool hosted many champions in its heyday including Australian freestyle swimmer Dawn Fraser. It’s worth driving past, even if it’s just to see the fun, multicoloured doors that decorate the entrance.
Phlegm’s mural looks like something straight out of a Lemony Snicket novel.
Our final stop was the Northam grain silos. Created in 2015, the 1,000km trail is WA’s largest outdoor art gallery and the inspiration behind many more regional silo murals across Australia. I’m forever in awe of mural artists and how they can create art on such a large scale.
Northam’s silos were painted by HENSE (USA) and Phlegm (UK) at a height of 35 metres over 16 days. HENSE’s fun, geometric shapes cover the right-hand side of the silos in an explosion of colour, and Phlegm’s black and white piece adorns the other, paying homage to the hot air ballooning culture of the region.
When I dropped off the car the following morning at Toyota, it dawned on me that I wasn’t ready to part ways with Husky. She’d been a dream to drive. With memories of the sun-soaked road unfolding in front of us, the previous day had unveiled some hidden treasures. I was already looking forward to returning to WA.
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