VOLUME 11 GAZOO DRIVES
Words by Leila Khoshoie
Photography by Leanne Wilson
6 MIN READ
Taking in the views at Bells Beach
Arguably one of the most scenic coastal drives in the world, the Great Ocean Road is popular with tourists and locals and it’s easy to see why. Huge stretches of coast peppered with rock formations, wildlife and local fare – it’s hard not to fall in love with this drive.
First: Epic views from Teddy’s Lookout
Second: Revelling in the cambered corners
Although the Great Ocean Road meanders along the Southern coastline, the beauty of this drive is that you can approach it in many different ways. Start at the end and work your way back. Go inland and explore the Otways. Stick to the coast and tick off all the hotspots along the way. It’s a real-life, choose-your-own-adventure kind of drive.
What thrilled me this time was that I was behind the wheel of the manual GR Supra. A Fuji White GTS, I’ve fantasised about driving this car. I was eager to see exactly what it could do in real life and how it would compare to the rest of the GR range.
Morning walks along Torquay Beach
DAY ONE
Before we got stuck into the day we took a walk along Torquay beach, where towering Norfolk Island pines line the foreshore. The soft morning light danced across the waves and we watched as a group of dogs played in the surf. I can see the appeal of living down the coast, it’s peaceful and calm compared to inner-city life.
Mortadelicious
First on our itinerary was Mortadeli in Torquay. There’s no way I can go to Torquay and not swing by this place. It feels like a little slice of Europe down the coast which, having spoken to owner Jake Cassar, is the intention. The continental deli has been going for four years, with the main grocer open for about a year. I love the vibe, I love the branding, and it’s hard to resist buying half the shop when everything looks so damn good.
After relocating to the coast from Melbourne, Jake noticed a need for decent coffee in the area (you can take the boy out of Melbourne…). Spotting an opportunity to elevate the offering in Torquay, Jake and his team haven’t looked back. Mortadeli offers the promise of Melbourne's world-renowned coffee, Maltese tuna sandwiches and fresh local produce, all to the soundtrack of seventies disco and the smell of fresh sea air. It's as authentically Mediterranean as it gets down here.
We quickly stopped at Bells Beach post-brekky, a popular spot for local surfers, before driving southwest along the coast to the quaint seaside town of Anglesea. Beach, bush and kangaroos make this a renowned hotspot, and the latter was exactly what fuelled our curiosity. Home to around 300 eastern grey kangaroos, Anglesea Golf Club has become a popular place to view the indigenous marsupials. Come for the roos, stay for the golf.
First: Roo spotting at Anglesea Golf Club
Second: Dipping into rich maritime history at Split Point Lighthouse
Next on our hit list was Split Point Lighthouse. Many will know it as the setting for the hit kids' TV show, Round The Twist. Aussies are forever surprised to hear that this show was as popular with us Brits back in the day as it was here – the theme song alone stirs a deep nostalgia in me. The lighthouse was opened in 1891 and is still in use today, visible up to 40km out to sea. With the GR Supra’s sleek curves complementing those of the lighthouse, I had confirmation of that head-turning design – necks were craning to get a good look.
Concrete curves meets sleek sculptural design
After a break at the Lighthouse Cafe we continued driving, passing under the iconic Great Ocean Road signage that makes this road trip feel that bit more official. We headed for Teddy’s Lookout, ready to take in the epic views of St Georges River and Bass Straight down below. The vantage point was excellent, the cars moved lazily like slow ants on the road below. Waves that were crashing against the rocks dramatically up close appeared to caress them more gently from afar.
Taking the corners, I felt the GR Supra responding instantly. I was reminded of sage advice from my driving instructor, Derek: “The faster you’re going, the less you need to move the steering wheel. You just need gentle manoeuvres.” I took the road in fifth, occasionally shifting down to take a curly corner. Being so low to the ground makes the sky feel bigger, and the whispers of the road louder.
Memorial Arch – gateway to the world’s largest war memorial
Along with Anglesea Golf Club, Kennett River is another good spot to get your wildlife fix. If you’re lucky with your timing, you might catch a glimpse of koalas swaying above you in the eucalyptus and cheeky red Australian King parrots fluttering around the trees. They’re bold and will take any opportunity to perch on you for a photo op.
We were hoping to catch the sunset in Apollo Bay but as we drove from Kennett River, the weather started to shift. It was turning out to be a clichéd, all-seasons-in-one-day kind of day, but the change from relentless sunshine and heat to gloomy, cloudy rain bursts felt cinematic. It was grounding to be by the coast, watching nature do its thing in all its resplendent glory. Heavy droplets of rain were pouring down on us by the time we made it to the far end of the foreshore – the heavens had well and truly opened up. The GR Supra stood out in stark contrast to the greyness of the road and sky, amplifying the moodiness of it all.
We wrapped up for the day and headed for our accommodation in Port Campbell. The place felt like the set of a Western movie, and the town was about the size of one too. Don’t make the same mistake as us – late-night dining isn’t an option as service wraps up around 8pm. The locals were lovely and helpful, getting us city folk fed before the night got away from us.
Determined to catch the sunrise, we got up at the crack of dawn and drove to Gibson Steps. This is one of my favourite spots along the Great Ocean Road. Once you’ve descended the steps, you are confronted by the majesty of open beach curling around in opposite directions. Cliff face behind you and the ocean in front. Among the elements, you’re exposed. Sand between your toes. The taste of salt air on your tongue. Seagulls glide and dip. A red fox scales the cliff behind you, a rabbit locked between its jaws. Nature feels so wild and raw out here.
The atmospheric sunrise at Gibson Steps was worth the early start
We stopped by Grassroots Deli Cafe for a cosy breakfast before jumping back in the GR Supra and heading for the iconic Twelve Apostles. Don’t expect twelve rock formations when you go – the name is a little misleading as only seven limestone stacks remain due to erosion. There were only nine to begin with, something I only learned recently.
Heading inland through the Otways, our ears popped from the change in altitude. The lush, overgrown forest is a maze of blind corners, offering plenty of opportunities to shift gears. It’s nerve-wracking when you can’t see what’s coming in the opposite direction, particularly when you’re behind the wheel of a hundred-thousand-dollar car that isn’t yours, but that makes for an arguably more exhilarating drive.
Fanging it through the leafy Otways
At one point I had to slam on the brakes, narrowly missing two families of ducks in the middle of the road. Emergency braking triggers the hazard lights which is pretty cool. I was impressed with how smoothly the car came to a stop considering I’d been going 80km/h. As well as being super responsive, other features felt very intuitive – wireless charging
Another food rec for those who, like me, plan their trips around the ritual of eating is Totti’s Lorne. With its trattoria-style layout and open kitchen offering simple Italian fare, this is a great place to enjoy a late lunch. A wood-fired oven delivered heavenly flatbreads which were a standout.
Sydney’s beloved export Totti’s is taking Lorne by storm
After all that driving, we rounded out the day with a dose of tranquillity down at Sheoak Falls. It’s a fifteen-minute walk (with stairs) to the waterfall where we sat and enjoyed a moment of stillness, listening to the gentle cascade of water into the pool below. It’s not Bonnie Doon but I’m sure Darryl Kerrigan would find this the perfect spot to ask “How’s the serenity?” On the walk back to the carpark we saw a snake and an echidna, bonus creatures to add to our native wildlife sightings.
First: Sheoak Falls will have you asking, “How’s the serenity?”
Second: The humble spiny anteater, aka the echidna
Homeward bound, I took the scenic route and traced the road back along the coast. With no passengers, it was just me and the GR Supra. This was the perfect opportunity to put it to the test, to focus purely on the ride. If you’re driving a manual like I was, it’s a challenge to contend with all the twists and turns of the road. But by the time I’d left Lorne, the clouds had melted away and I’d eased into the drive. A double rainbow glistened ahead of me as the sunshine touched everything in sight. I briefly stopped the car to try and get a photo but like a lot of things in life, it’s hard to capture what’s in front of you. Sometimes you just have to be in the moment.
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